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generalkorrd last won the day on September 7 2011

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About generalkorrd

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  1. Honestly, I stopped posting because of all the spammers. It almost looks to me like this forum has been given up on by the admins. Not trying to offend, it's just how I feel.
  2. Only an integrated amplifier or reciever will do the job for you. Or you can buy a reciever that has "zone 2" outputs. Usually this type of reciever uses the back surrounds as the speaker output for zone 2. The advantage to zone 2 outputs is that you can use the reciever in one room on the BR player, and you can have radio going through the rest of the house. IOW it lets you run 2 sources at once.
  3. This seems like it may be a very good deal for someone, I would if I had the funds:
  4. The end result of that thread is that directional shielding is the main consideration, and twisted pair right behind it. Other than that, make sure your ends are good, and you are done! Just like I said, it ain't magic people!
  5. There are some people like that, and you will never convince them otherwise. Of course, it's a lot easier to justify buying those expensive cables when you are able to get them at store cost lol.
  6. Build quality of wire to me is only important to make sure that the terminations stay on/don't break and that the sheath will not rot out or get brittle, that's as far as that needs to go. Even if the salesman is convinced that there is no difference, he'll probably never tell you that lol. There is-- or at least was when I was selling-- a 50 percent commission on all accesories( wires, power strips and so on). That is a huge chunk of change, especially when dealing with a 400 dollar power cord!
  7. Self education links:
  8. The cable debate! A little background first: I used to sell high end home audio in the late 90's. I have won trips based on my ability to sell high end cables/wires/accessories. With that being said, here is my view: When it comes to RCA cables, or any cable that carries a very low voltage signal- I say buy the one that offers the best SHIELDING. Reason being is that a low voltage(1-2volts) connection acts as a magnet for noise that travels along power wires. Similar to the idea that nature abhors a vacuum and wants to equalize pressures. Don't buy into the multi guage/time alignment/ other snake oil, base your decision on shielding alone. Also look for the wires that are directional, as the internal foil shield stops just before the destination plug, terminating a large amount of noise with it. Twisted pair construction also has merit to it. Speaker cable: no amount of silver/gold/titanium/ unobtanium that is in those wires will help your audio sound better. The only thing that matters is guage of the wire, and then only in higher power applications OR extremely long runs. Shielding is not so important here, as 1) the voltage is much higher(20 volts and up), and 2) the destination is a speaker, and not an electronic component that will take that signal and process/amplify it. If you go with the aforementioned 99.99% pure copper with adequate shielding on it, you will sound just as good as the $700/foot speaker cable. 14 guage is more than good enough for most home audio apps, even 200watt + amps, over common distances- less than say 15 feet. Longer than that, go with heavier guage. $400 power cable: LOL The only thing I would consider on a power cable is the amount of shielding on it, as the power cable is the cause of the most noise in your system. The problem here is that the power cable carries 120 volts on it, the magnetic field it produces is quite a bit larger than the cable itself( this is how noise is created in your system). I dont know of any material that will inhibit the size of a magnetic field, that doesnt mean there arent any, I just don't know of them( lead maybe?). A power cable would have to be something like 10 inches thick-and all of that thickness would be shielding- to have some kind of effect on the noise in your system. Any piece of gear that is sold in America today has a power cable that is of a heavy enough guage to handle the voltage and current demand of the gear. There is NO reason to upgrade this, unless you have modified your amp to produce more power. It will not magically align the electrons or any bullshit like that. This is all my opinion of course, but my system is DEAD quiet, and I am using ~25 year old pro amps that have little to no noise rejection circuitry built in. Edit: The stuff about how noise works and how it is associated with voltage is what I was taught in some basic electronics classes many years ago.
  9. It will truly be at another level when you get a good amp on those, especially compared to an avr. One thing you want to make sure of, is that whatever amp you choose is known for the ability to drive low impedance loads--2 ohms should be sufficient. The reason why is that a speaker is a dynamic load, i.e. an 8 ohm speaker doesnt always show the amp 8 ohms, it could show the amp 2 ohms at times, as drivers move in and out, the impedance changes, so that's why it's dynamic. I have noticed that generally, there is more of an issue with this on multi driver speakers like yours( and mine!). All of the amps that I posted up have a good capability to get to 2 ohms or better. This will ensure that as the volume goes up, that you don't lose definittion and sq in general( like you are now with the avr).
  10. Also, if you are willing to wait for a few weeks, to a couple months( at most) your money would be best spent here: EXTREMELY well, reviewed gear, I have the UMC-1 from them( surround preamp), and am wanting an XPA-2, but funds are a problem for me right now. They are between products right now, just finishing on their closeouts. The new line is supposed to come out very soon. They are routinely compared against gear that is 3-7 times as much money, and Emotiva usually wins. If I were you, and could hold out for a couple months, I would get an XPA-2, or spend a bit more and get a pair of XPA-1 monoblocks. Sometimes you can find xpa-2 used for around 600. Emotiva also has a 5year warranty on their gear that is transferrable.
  11. Adcom is ok, the other gear that I posted up is on another level compared to adcom. Adcom is kind of "entry level" audiophile, if you know what I mean. Good stuff, but if you shop around, you will find better gear for the same money or a bit more. Also, look at this carver: Do a search for the carver tfm amps, they go from tfm 15 to tfm 75(as far as I've seen) I remember them being serious powerhouses, especially for the money that they get on ebay nowadays. Plus, swing needles!
  12. get this: or this: or, if you want to go old school, get this(I have 2 different amps from the same company, and they are amazing! :
  13. Thanks!
  14. The sub is running at 3.3 net with a tuning of 22 hz. The 8's have 1.4 net total, so .35 per woof.
  15. I designed it myself, the inspiration came from when I used to sell home audio, and Infinity was selling the Preludes which had a sidefiring sub in them.