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Trying to get some things going here and since I am always taking quick snapshots at work and elsewhere, I'll post some pictures from my phone of things I have been working on, or worked on, or just cool thing I get to see. First off, old Philco radio our tech refurbished. Went through all the electrical and refinished the exterior. Really cool old piece. You can tune in short wave radio signals too which I thought was neat. Built in record player. The customer who brought it in is excited to have this thing restored.

Recieved the new computer yesterday Thursday . Have to work out how to use Windows 8 now . It appears to be a lot like Windows 7, but , a lot of things are hidden Starting to get computer numb-bum through sitting for hours , Back soon as I am starting to sort and simplify the the whole thing ,Working out the IDC . Insulation Displacement Connectors plugs and sockets now . The idea is to have ribbon connectors etc to make it very construction friendly and super neat . I put a commercial spike and surge protector on the mains to the computer gear .I thought it over and decided that I realy could be bothered making my own . Back soon as soon as a i can find out how to put pics on this computer ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Alan

Sounds like a simple speaker selector switch would be appropriate. It would consist of wiring the receiver to the switch and indoor set and simply switching the outside speakers on and off. Monoprice makes one for a 4 zone setup, however you can make it work just as easy with your situation and it is relatively cheap. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10903&cs_id=1090305&p_id=9995&seq=1&format=2

Sorry about the delay in response. A new AVR should will be able to take care of your needs. Specifically, what you are going to want to look for is a receiver that has at least 5.1 pre-outs. The Sony you listed does not. I am currently in need of the exact same thing. I have been eyeing the Onkyo NR717, however it does not have bluetooth, but I believe you can purchase a bluetooth adapter. That will give you the 5.1 pre-outs to feed your Lexicon amplifier, the ability to do HDMI switching, bluetooth, and have a networked receiver. Hope this all helps

To my surprise, my radio is quite Patriotic.

I actually found this site via Google search

Big projector anyone?

A couple pictures I snapped at the old job. Elecro-Voice EVI-H being rigged up. This was a pretty standard system we would do for smaller church congregations. I almost miss working off the ground.

Customer who had bought a new Samsung LED had their old Sharp moved into their bedroom. I only snapped a picture because 55" in a bedroom is a bit overkill! Dish receiver is concealed behind the TV.

Some 18" Electrovoice subwoofers I rebuild for a local club.

Home Theater Primer Surround Sound Basics and Generalities: Surround sound is a type of audio format/system that allows sounds to originate from all areas of the viewing position. As you already know, in movies, as in real life, when there's action going on, there are sounds coming from all directions. Even if all of the action is directly in front of you, there are other sounds that are reflected off of surfaces to your side and behind you. When watching movies, especially action packed movies, there are even more sounds which actually originate from behind the camera's position. To accurately convey the cinematic experience, the film makers use multiple channels to more accurately reproduce those sounds and therefore make you feel like you are actually in the middle of the action. To make the experience as realistic as possible, surround sound systems use 3 or more speakers located in different positions in the listening rooms. Mono sound: Most TVs have a single small speaker for audio reproduction. All of the sound has to come from this speaker which leads to a less than realistic reproduction of the audio soundtrack content. Stereo sound: A stereo signal leads to a more realistic soundstage. The stereo signal is composed of 2 independent (left and right) signals. The left and right signals of the stereo signal are generally similar but not exactly the same. The two channels are used to give the audio a sense of depth. If your listening position is in the center of the 2 speakers and one instrument or voice is only produced in the left channel, it will seem to originate from the left side of the listening area. If a particular sound is only slightly louder in one of the channels, that sound will seem to originate off center slightly toward the channel in which the sound is louder. If the content of both channels is exactly the same, the voice, musical instrument and everything else will appear to originate from directly between the speakers even though there is no speaker in the center position. When using this 2 speaker type of system to produce a center image, it is sometimes called a phantom center channel. This type of system works erelatively well in producing the center 'image' as long as you're seated directly in the center of the speakers (from left to right). In the following diagram, you can see that there are only 2 speakers. If the drum is played in both channels equally loudly, it will appear to come from the center (between the speakers) even though there is no center channel. Since the horn is only in the left channel, it will appear to originate from the far left. The guitar will seem to originate from the far right. n this image, the guitar is louder in the right channel but is also audible, albeit at a lower level, in the left channel. This will cause it to appear to come from right of center but not from the far right. The drum still appears to originate from the center of the speakers and the horn still appears to originate from the far left. 2 Channel Sound: All of the above works fine as long as you're seated in the middle of the couch. To take it to the extreme, if you were seated directly in front of the left speaker, the proper 'imaging' would not be possible. This may not be really important for audio but when watching a movie, it may be a little distracting and definitely wouldn't give you the best viewing experience possible. Since it's necessary (in a 2 speaker system) for a component (guitar, drum...) of the audio signal to be contained in BOTH channels to appear to come from the center, sitting anywhere other than the center of the room will produce a skewed image. In other words, the instruments that are equally loud in both speakers and should sound like they originate from the center of the room, will actually seem to originate to one side of the room (closer to your listening position). Simple 3 Channel Front Imaging: Since everyone can not be (comfortably) seated precisely in the center of the room, a dedicated center channel speaker will provide a more solid center channel image. This center channel would ideally be placed in the center of the TVs display screen. Since it isn't necessary for any of the center channel info to be reproduced by the left and right speakers (because there is now a dedicated center channel), they can be used as dedicated left and right channels. Now if you're seated slightly (or more than slightly) off center, there will be a center speaker which will draw your focus to the center speaker and therefore the viewing screen. This means that most of the dialogue will be reproduced in the center channel and unless the actors are off center in the video, there will be little or no dialogue coming from the left and right speakers. Since the center channel is going to be the most used when watching movies, is must be of at least the same quality as the left and right speakers. When choosing a home theater receiver, its center channel amplifier must have the same output power as the left and right channels. This is becoming more common as of late but some receivers are still designed with lower power output for the center channel. 4 Channel Surround Sound (aka: Dolby Pro-Logic): The previous chapter dealt with the left to right sound stage. To increase the 'depth' of the sound stage, you need to have some of the audio content originate from the sides and/or behind your listening position. That's where the fourth channel comes into play. The sound from the rear surround channel will be produced by either 1 or 2 speakers. If you use a single speaker, the speaker can be directly behind your listening position. If you use 2 speakers (preferred method) for the mono surround signal, you will generally place them slightly behind and a couple of feet above your listening position. They are generally placed on or near the side walls of the room. If they can not be placed on the side walls of the room, they may also placed on the ceiling behind your listening position. This diagram shows how the guitar's 'image' is projected to the left and slightly behind you when it it reproduced in the front left and to a lesser extent in the surround channels. Since the surround channels aren't independent and are actually a mono signal, the signal is reproduced by the left and right surround speakers, the rear surround effects aren't perfect but are certainly better than a 'front only' speaker system. 5.1 channel digital surround (aka:Dolby Digital, AC-3 and DTS): This type of surround is capable of reproducing 6 completely independent channels of audio. 5 of the channels are full range (20hz to 20,000hz) and the '.1' channel is a subwoofer (20hz-120hz) channel. In this type of surround, the surround channels are independent of one another. This allows you to have a much more realistic front/rear/left/right sound stage. The audio signal can appear to originate from any one of the 5 full range speakers and sending a signal to a combination of the speakers can make the signal appear to originate from virtually any point on the horizontal plane. This makes it better than any of the previously discussed systems. In this 5.1 channel system, you can see that the imaging can be more precise. The guitar, which is only reproduced by the left front speaker, seems to originate from the left front of the listening room. The horn, which is only reproduced by the left rear surrond appears to originate from that part of the room. The combination of all of the speakers can make virtually any sound appear to originate from virtually any part of the room. You should also notice the addition of the subwoofer. The subwoofer's placement is not critical and would generally be placed where it produces the best results. Placement of the sub in the corner would likely produce more bass. Placement in the center of the room (near the couch) would result in less extreme low frequency bass. The specifics of the individual Dolby systems: Dolby Surround: Dolby 3 channel surround was one of the first surround formats. It was simply known as Dolby surround. It used a simple matrixed analog signal which was generally decoded by the audio/video reciever. It essentially used the difference between the left and right channels and sent the mono bandwidth limited signal to one or 2 speakers that were placed behind the viewing position. Dolby Pro-Logic: Dolby Pro-Logic is a 4 channel surround format which produces 3 full range channels (20hz to 20,000hz) for the left, right and center speakers and 1 bandwidth limited channel that is used to produce frequencies from 100hz to 7,000hz for and rear surround channels. Dolby Digital or AC-3: AC-3 is a digital audio coding system developed by Dolby Laboratories. It is better known as Dolby Digital. It provides for the encoding and decoding of 5 full range channels which can reproduce frequencies from 3hz to 20,000hz +/-3dB (20-20,000hz +/-.5dB) and 1 LFE (Low Frequency Effects) channel which covers 3hz to 120hz. The 5 full range channels are for the left, center, right, left surround and right surround. The LFE channel is sent to a subwoofer. More info about Dolby's surround formats can be found at Dolby.com. Dolby digital is the standard adopted by the DVD manufacturers for use in all territories that employ the NTSC video format (US and Japan). It will also be the standard used in the US for HDTV (high definition TV) broadcasts. Digital Theater Systems (aka: DTS): DTS is a competitor of Dolby's AC-3 Format. It is capable of encoding a signal with a dynamic range of 24 bits vs. 20 for Dolby Digital. It is also capable of encoding at a bit rate of 96kb/s vs. a 48kb/s rate for Dolby Digital. This comparison data is just that... for comparison. I am NOT endorsing either format. I believe that you'd be HARD pressed to hear a difference between the 2 coding schemes... all else being equal. More info about DTS can be found at DTStech.com. Lucasfilm's THX: THX is not a competing format of Dolby or DTS. It is a certification program which assures (or attempts to assure) that the home video experience will approach or match the actual theater experience. There are 2 different certification programs for home theaters. THX Ultra: THX Ultra is the original and most exacting form of home THX certification. It requires that the left, center and right speakers have controlled directivity, especially vertical directivity. This assures the most accurate imaging. The total power response of the system must add up to a flat (equal levels at all frequencies) response. It requires that the system be able to reproduce a 105dB output level across the audio spectrum. THX Select: THX Select is a less demanding (and therefore somewhat less expensive) form of THX certification designed for rooms of less than 2000 cubic feet. It allows for left, center and right to have a less controlled directivity. The speakers are also generally smaller and more easily be incorperated into the decor.The total power response must still add up to a flat response and the output must still be able to reproduce levels of 105dB. More about THX can be found at THX.com. THX Surround Speakers: THX certification requires that the surround speakers are of dipole configuration. This means that the speakers will, when mounted on a side wall of the room, fire both to the front and rear of the room and direct very little sound toward the listener. The diagram shows how the THX surround speakers fire front to rear along the walls of the room. Source: http://www.bcae1.com

They should be called the Purdy for how good they look. I love the black on black insignia on the woofer. I couldn't even see it untill I started snapping photo's. Normally I don't care how a driver looks, heck I I really don't mind if the speaker is ugly as long as it performs... but I think these have both looks and sound in spades. With the skirts on. Line level input or ampable. the teaser shot.

Would one of you moderators please give me 100 for my reputation , no reason , just for the hell of it ...................................Alan I've only got '90' to go and there is no movement in sight . What is happening!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! , Is there no light at the end of the tunnel??????????. I know ' Rome' wasn't made in a day , but , i am getting tired of waiting. Isn't there someone that can simply add that '90' on to my miserable score Frustrated to the Max..............................................................Alan

Since I had no luck selling my old Pio Elite receiver on CL I thought I should at least put it to good use. Driving the crap Infinity's that I've had for the past few years I wouldn't consider good use. Considering I had some spare wood in the garage I thought putting to use some full rangers would fit the build for a nice near field solution. No need for ultra high dynamics as most of the time I am in my office I am working. "Settled" on using a TangBand W4-1337SD which is really a hell of a 4"er. In an effort to save time and expedite things, in particular since atm I have no data acquisition system at the house I built them based on Jed's design from HTGuide. This also allowed me to finish them in only a couple hours instead of spending weeks getting everything in order. My initial impressions are that I am going to love these, but have only had the opportunity to listen to Pandora through my crappy laptops soundcard so a more in depth review will happen later when I get my music server piped back into the office. Here are some quick build pics. If I truly fall in love with these I surely may rebuild them in nicer boxes. This was just some leftover ply that I picked up at HD. It is their best quality but not quite void free. I didn't feel like bolting on the trailer to go and grab some mdf and figured as an experiment that it would be good enough. I built these basically over two lunch breaks with a little soldering last night. My initial impressions are such that I wish I would have spent more time on the enclosures, but considering the minimal cost in money and time it won't be too hard to replace them in the future. Empty boxes PE Vinyl Damping PE Sonic barrier 3/4" Holes cut Top Front Binding post Installed

Thank you. I too am a huge fan of natural. Scandinavian in me I guess. TV stand I built a while back...for a CRT. Now it holds a 55" LCD. Was rushed to take the pic which is a shame considering I have wire management built into the back of it.

We carry a few different LEDs where I work and they all have phenominal picture. I especially Like the new Sharp quadtrons colors, but all LCD and LEDs have very odd motion. It looks unnatural and it takes away from the viewing experience for me. This site explains what I see pretty well. http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/lcdtv/120hz-240hz-60hz.html They also have a lot of other interesting reads on displays. I still want A Pioneer Elite tho. The store owner has a 60" Elite and it is arguably the best display I have ever seen, hands down.

0 degrees: Toed in: Toed out:

Yes. Sitting in your chair, 0 degrees will be them facing dead at you. Toed out means that you want them pointing away from your ears just a tad. Toed out you will see the inside of the speakers, that is, the side facing the middle of the room. Toed in, you will see the outside of the speakers, that is, the side nearest the wall. You will notice that when you point them out the image depth will get more shallow, but the stage width and presentation will become more broad. You don't want it too broad, as it crushes the image. When you start to toe in, you notice a deeper image, but a more narrow stage presentation. With straight in line speaker like the Digms, you have to be fairly precise in your aiming. With offset tweeters, you can play with the image depth by keeping the tweeters to the inside, and pointing the speakers a little wider. Or if you like a broad stage with less concern about image depth, you can put the tweets to the outside. So with that in mind, play with the toe in and out a bit. Close your eyes and listen for the placement of musicians. You should be able to pick out the singer in the front and center, guitarists a bit further back, bassists even further back, and drums furthest from the front. But you should be able to isolate them. Listen to it and see what matters most to you. Most people like a broad stage, but if you really get into it, image depth becomes more important. You will know you have reached audiophile status when you are playing with your image depth

Even your wife could figure this out. Now Playing screen Volume Control for the main four rooms Lights Local Traffic Weather All controlled via mouse at the moment, but touchscreens and portable pc's with wireless anywhere in the house can as well.

Do you have any pictures of the speakers in your sig? I sure do. stereo pictures by sandt38 - Photobucket That is my home stereo album. I built those using Adire AV8s and Audax tweets. Tuned to 36Hz they have an in room F3 of 28Hz. There are some pics in various state of completion in the album. I also did a tutorial on veneering when I built this set of speakers I can dig up if you want to see more of the build.

What did i do this Easter ????? Seeing that I live in tropical paradise there is no need for me to travel . SO I went fishing along the massive Burnett river . No need for a boat here , fishing the banks is more than good enougth ' Any fish under 3' we chuck it back in so it can grow up . One of my freesers in full of fish , the Wife complains to use it up before i catch more . Woman dont understand fishermen . .......................Alan

Voltage sag or fluctuations are really not the issue, these or slow and not very noticable unless your equipment has a power supply that can't deal with this. It's all the crap on the line that is the problem. This doesn't change anywhere in the world. If you have a PC or anything else with a switching supply, any appliances in your house or flourescent lights, you have EMI on the line. Measurable EMI. EMI that makes it through the power supply of your equipment. Measurable EMI leaving your power supply and entering your equipment's circuitry. There is also RFI on your line caused by other things as well, also measurable.... #1 If you can't hear the effect of this through your audio equipment, you don't need a power filter. #2 If you can, you do need a power filter. There really isn't much worth arguing over those last 2 simple points....

Dont forget a just as important thing . Room acoustics. Dampen that room down with carpet, mats and a rug on the rear wall , if possable . Alan

VideoCalc So maybe you’re in the market for something even bigger than a big-screen TV. With a projection system, you can stretch out to something in the neighborhood of 120 inches diagonal. The trick is determining how far back to position the projector and the seats. The $2.99 VideoCalc app identifies the best locations based on data you enter, including the dimensions of the screen and the throw range of the projector.

What about these guys. Seem to have a great selection. http://www.certainlywood.com/

Hey just thought I'd post a Forum on my current system and update as i go and add on to it. This is current system to date of 5/23/2013: Receiver: Yamaha HTR-6050 5.1 Channel Equalizer: Pioneer Graphic Equalizer SG-9500 5 Disc CD Changer: Technics SL-PD9 Dynamic Processor: Pioneer Dynamic Processor RG-1 Bookshelf Speakers: 1) Bose 301 V Series 2) two pair of Realistic Minimus-7 Tower Speakers: S-DAT (don't no model) Sub-woofer: BIC America (don't know either) Addons: Xbox 360, Laptop, Phone(HTC ONE X) Speaker Cable: Monster XP Stand: SANUS 5 Shelf stereo rack TV: Samsung 40" LED 240hz 1080p Thin Smart TV Notes: *Currently I don't have the Dynamic Processor connected because its unneeded and just causes me more interference so does more harm then good. *Actually bought the receiver and tower speakers and sub for 125 as a bundle on craigslist in my local town and all I cared about was the receiver so that's why I don't know the model number of the tower speakers and sub. To-do's: 1) New Sub (YST-SW315) 2) New tower speakers (Yamaha NS-F150) 3) New Receiver (RX-V673) 4) Logitech Harmony Remote 5) Center Channel speaker 6) High Quality Cables(Blue Jeans AudioQuest) Will post pics and update later -Koshiii 5/23/2013

Well, the sub woofer came in a week early, so I can answer my own questions...no, no, and no. It is a BIC America F12 and sounds great, just what I was hoping for. Thanks anyway!

I can't say that I hate you, but I am jealous! This is what yesterday looked like for me. Plus lots of wind and tall snow drifts.

I recently moved into a new house with multiple zones for audio. I'm really excited to be able to take advantage of this, but I don't know much about home audio. The house has a living room with in-wall speakers and speakers in the ceiling (for the TV), speakers in the ceiling in the kitchen, and outdoor speakers on the deck and on the patio. Ultimately I see this as three zones (TV, kitchen, and outside). All the wiring goes to a cabinet in the living room, so I think I only need one receiver?? I'd like to be able to watch TV in the living room and still have music play in the kitchen and outside. My assumption is that this only requires 2 sources for 3 zones. I have no idea what kind of equipment or receiver I should look into to handle this. Ideally, I'd like to spend between $300 - $500 dollars if possible. From what I've seen, most of the receivers out there now handle AirPlay and Pandora, which my wife really wants. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what hardware to purchase? Thanks for your help!

What are some of the tools you would need to get clean voice audio, eg hardware and software. Sound-card Preamp Large Diaphragm Cables What are the cheaper tools to do that job right. Thanks Dan

Hi, I'm a noob when it comes to home audio, and I was hoping to get some advice for looking into a decent setup for my house. I have a rather larger living room with a high ceiling, and I host a lot of parties and like to watch movies. I was thinking about getting a 2.1 system, preferably with floorstanding speakers, in the $500 range (Flexible if you can convince me that $500 won't buy me anything close) starting completely from scratch (unless you count an ancient pair of Harman Kardon computer speakers). I am getting into DJing quite a bit, and I plan on getting a Gemini CDMP7000, which has a built in analog mixer, soon, and I plan on using that a lot with the speakers for parties and such. I'd love some suggestions for what to get and where to look! I've done some Amazon browsing, but I wanted some advice before I decided to buy anything. I really want to fill up the place with really loud music for parties, but I don't want it to sound like crap if I can avoid it! Thanks for any advice at all! -Lary

The equipment in my bedroom. The top is my Heathkit AA-151 tube amp that i restored while I was in school. Not original paint. It used to be a Orange Vinyl. I'm currently using that and I do prefer the sound of it compared to the Kenwood below, but lacks in the power department compared to the solid state Kenwood. The Kenwood KR-6050 is one of my favorite pieces of equipment. My father bought it when he was in the Navy years ago, I aquired it in high school, had it gone through and use it to this day. I LOVE the analog power meters more than anything!

Hey, folks! I want to know whether I can connect a receiver to an amp. (Probably a totally stupid noob question, but I don't know the answer :-) Here's what I have: Lexicon MC8 processor Lexicon LX-5 amp Two very sweet B&W speakers Lexicon RT10 DVD player 10 y.o. Fujitsu 50" plasma TV P50 XHA10US (top of the line when new and picture still way nicer than newer LCDs in other parts of house :-) We are not interested in surround, so the Lexicon currently powers just the two front B&Ws. All this stuff cost us an arm and a leg 10 years ago, so I'm reluctant to chuck any of it. However, the MC8 and Fujitsu TV do not deal with HDMI (the Fujitsu accepts component video). We are looking at replacing the MC8 with a mid-range receiver, right now thinking of the Sony STR DN1030. This receiver not only allows us to use HDMI inputs but also allows USB and Bluetooth connections (which our cars have allowed for some time :-). But I have questions: I don't really understand what's coming from the MC8 to the LX-5 now. Can the STR DN1030 provide the same type of output as the MC8, allowing the LX-5 do to the 'amp'ing? Or does the fact that the STR DN1030 is amping the channels out of it mean that that cannot be the input for an amp like the LX-5? Am I totally screwed up here? Should I being doing something entirely different? --Helpless in Minneapolis

Have the drift car in the garage on some jack stand. Bud is doing some work on it over the winter. Here's how it sounds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thZUEKNFTZI

There were speakers behind this panel originally. You can see where they were cut in a couple pictures down. Speakers that were cut into the ceiling. Another view.

JL Audio 8w7AE subwoofer. What a little fucking monster. Two of those badboys in the trunk of a Mazda RX8 powered by a JL 1000/1v2. The finished product here is not my work. This is an install I had helped with.

Guessing the Amp was an Integra. Are you doin this strictly for music or are you planning on using your system for home theater? Really, if you already own a pair of Klipschorns and an amp to power them, all you need would be a receiver to do all the switching ,assuming you are just using this for music. Avoid the BBE sonic maximizer no matter what. It's basically fancy "loudness button" What you have already should do you very good for a stereo music set up. If you want a multi channel set up for surround sound, a second set of Klipschorns would be overkill. Kind of give us more ideas on your goals and we can guide you in the right direction. With @10K+ to spend, you should be able to get something worth listening to 24/4

Hey guys, Just trying to get some opinions on the layout of my surround sound. I will be building a new house soon and have the option of prewiring 4 speakers locations in the house. Just wondering where you guys think I should put the speaker wire. I get 4 speaker locations with an upgrade on the house so i can go 5.1 easy or I can go 7.1 and build 2 towers for the Front R and L. Here is the layout of the house. Larger image can be seen here. http://chesmar.com/houston/hunters-creek/documents/1013WebPlan_000.pdf Here is a little system layout diagram I found.

Has anyone had experience with Proficient or Sunfire Subs?

I had the Tempest in my first house in Adire's EBS enclosure, so I would assume the Brahma would perform even better. BTW, I have a 15" twelve-spoke basket lying around collecting dust if you need it.

Watched this movie the other night ... VERY Cool Movie !!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrIiYSdEe4E

aaaaaaaaathank you Todd . 80 something to go !.............................Alan Ps do you take bribes!!!! Will you take a bit less seeing its nearly 'fathers day' ???????.Alan

IE, http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ele/2366921343.html No experience with the PDR, but would expect it to be great for $125. Didn't see much else in Cincy (where your sig says you are...)

Nora: She's a rescued Bulldog Boxer mix. She has been in our family for about 2 years now. We're guessing she's about 4 1/2 years old now. Onyx (RIP) Onyx passed away in 2007 due to DCM and was my best friend.

Finally got around to getting y'all a picture. (note this is a blackberry picture ) http://www.homeaudioforum.net/gallery/image/76-img00236jpg/ I made a gallery here, It won't let me link the picture, so hopefully one of you mods can help or I can just try tomorrow to fix it. Its bedtime now

BBC News - Heavy rock singer Ronnie James Dio dies at 67 American heavy rock singer Ronnie James Dio, who replaced Ozzy Osbourne in Black Sabbath, has died at the age of 67, his wife has said. Dio had been suffering from stomach cancer. Before joining Black Sabbath he sang in Rainbow - formed when Ritchie Blackmore left Deep Purple - and later in Heaven & Hell and Dio. Dio's wife Wendy said on her husband's website: "Please know he loved you all and his music will live on forever."

I think you might ave been looking for this: Oakwood Veneer Company HUGE selection of damn near anything you could ever want.

True, but if you're using RGBHV with an HDMI optical player, you'll be using it with a receiver that most likely accepts HDMI and outputs Component or RGBHV. And any receiver that does that will have HDCP. Unless of course you're using it in the pro environment with a switcher/scaler. Then you might run into some issues. Recently I hooked up a MacMini to a DVI distro and discovered no output on all of the connectors of the distro. Turns out the Distro wasn't HDCP compatible and the Mini outputs that on it's DVI out. Switched it to VGA and everything works.

Paradigm are very good quality and sound amazing. I run the monitor 7 v2's and they sound great.

I have not heard about it in a long time. Would PE have any?